Fez

Morocco Day 6 - Fes

Today was a truly fascinating day.  We started out going to the building attached to the Qaraouiyine Mosque, one of the most famous mosques in the world, where there is a library and a school for training imams.  We were attending a symposium where we would be learning from some Moroccan scholars, and the Imam of the Qaraouiyine Mosque about Ramadan and the spirituality of this particular holy season.  We were taken through a truly labyrinthine path through the Old City of Fez to get to the building.  The passageways are cobblestoned, narrow and in some places rather dark. Not to mention you have to frequently make way for donkeys laden with huge parcels or metal drums, or men pushing carts laden with goods, or folks on mopeds.  You really need eyes behind your head to survive!  There are shops all through the streets of the Old City - this is where the souk of Fez is found and it is truly like stepping into a time machine into a far distant past.  We passed by men pounding copper pots and then rows of shops selling textiles and clothing, and then leather goods.  When we got to the building we were escorted through a narrow door, up tiled steps and into a majestic meeting room with huge wooden tables and chairs with leather seats.  We're told when Prince Charles visited Morocco a few years ago he held meetings in that room!  We spent almost two hours with several Moroccan scholars of religion, the Imam and a Fez city official.  They told us all about Ramadan and then we had some time for Q&A.  We were a bit surprised when our Moroccan hosts seemed to bring things to a close a bit earlier than we expected.  There had been a flurry of animated Arabic conversation which we later learned arose because the Imam said he wanted to take us into the mosque.  His colleagues were, apparently, shocked that he actually wanted to take us inside the mosque.  They kept saying something to the effect, "You mean you want to show them the outside of the mosque" and he was adamant that he wanted to take us INSIDE the mosque.  To do that, he ordered that the mosque remain closed until he told them to open it (they were getting ready to open it for noonday prayers) and we were taken into the main area of the mosque.  He gave us a complete tour including the inside, the courtyard, where the fountain and wudu stations are found and up to the second floor where the old library is found.  The manuscripts that used to be in that library, thousands of them dating back to the late 8th/early 9th century have now been moved to another room in the complex, which we visited after lunch.  The mosque is absolutely gorgeous.  Truly Moroccan with complexly carved wood and stone with Arabic calligraphy, gorgeous rugs, the courtyard all tiled.  Truly stunning.  Our leader, Imam Bashar was thrilled that we got to see the mosque, because Moroccans are very strict about not letting non-Muslims into mosques, ever.  The Imam who invited us really put his foot down with his colleagues who were stunned by his desire to show us the interior of the mosque but we were really glad that he ruled the day.  There is a university affiliated with the mosque and a series of mederesas, schools to education boys also all located near the mosque.  Indeed, the entire medina, or market area wraps around the mosque, which has 14 entrances.  As you wend your way through the narrow alleyways and winding lanes you keep coming upon yet another entrance to the mosque.  The wooden structure inside the mosque where the imam stands to deliver the Friday sermon is over 1000 years old.  It is beautiful, dark carved wood, just really stunning.  

After our tour of the mosque we made our way back out of the Old City and returned to the hotel for lunch.  After lunch a smaller group of us returned to the Old City where the Imam served as our tour guide, walking us all through the medina.  He took us into several medresas, schools, some of which are undergoing considerable refurbishing.  They all look much like the mosque in terms of tile, intricate carved wood and stone with calligraphy from the Qur'an all over the walls.  The walk through the Old City was just a feast for the senses.  The sounds of people banging out copper pots and others calling out to sell their wares, going down lanes that first are all full of copper and silver goods, then clothing, then scarves, then textiles, the leather skins, various food stalls (even though the Muslims are fasting they purchase the foods for the festive Iftar by late afternoon).  We stopped in a koutoubia, a pre-kindergarten class where a teacher was working with a group of very young children teaching them to recite verses from the Qur'an.  I don't think they quite knew what to make of us Americans barging into their class unannounced!   We were taken back to the library in the University area next to the mosque and into the manuscript room where the archivist let us look at a 9th century Qur'an, a 12th century New Testament (in Arabic) and a 12th century medical text, also in Arabic, that is the only extant copy of what was in its time the major medical textbook of the Arab world.  Apparently, all the medical information in the book is in the form of poetry so that medical students could memorize it.  Scholars are having a hard time translating it because the 12th century Arabic lettering is different enough from modern Arabic to pose some challenges. 

The Imam asked what we wanted to shop for in the Old City and he and his sidekick took us to certain shops and served as bargaining intermediaries as we made purchases.  A couple of my male colleagues followed my lead from the other day and bought abayahs to wear as albs for church.   We had a great time with them trying those on and the Moroccan men chiming in - lots of animated conversation!!  Having the imam there to make sure we got a good price helped too!  

By 5:15 we made our way out of the Old City and headed back to the hotel.  At 6:45 we were out the door again, this time to the home of another famous Imam here in Morocco, who is known worldwide for his recitation of the Qur'an.  He lives in a truly elegant home, tiled, with a first floor that has two spacious salons for guests to congregate, a fountain in the entrance hall...the works.  We had a sumptuous Iftar meal with tons of food.  We broke the fast at sundown with the dates and water, and then the Muslims got up to pray in a small corner of the first floor where we were having the Iftar meal.  Then we proceeded to enjoy all the typical Moroccan Iftar foods, of which there are many - the hareira soup, breads, pancakes, pizza-style breads, fried eggs with lamb, boiled eggs, lots of sweets made from honey, croissants and sweet breads of every kind and variety.  The table were elegantly set and so crowded you could barely move without knocking something over!  After we finished the meal we rested for a bit, and then accompanied our hosts out to the street near the local mosque for the night prayer.  It was quite a sight to observe the entire neighborhood making their way to the mosque.  Because absolutely everyone attends, there isn't enough room inside the mosque so hundreds and hundreds of them pray right out on the street leading to the mosque.  We stood back and observed.  It was really impressive to watch them all doing the night prayers, listening to the chanting of the Qur'an over the loudspeaker and watching them all in their Ramadan finery - most of them were wearing traditional Moroccan garb, both men and women.  Very small children accompany their parents to these prayers - it is truly a communal event of some magnitude and it goes on every night for 30 days.  

Then we returned to our host's home and a group of Sufi chanters arrived to regale us with their chant.  We listened to them for about 45 minutes.  It was beautiful and mesmerizing, although VERY LOUD, as they used microphones and a speaker system that could have been heard throughout the entire neighborhood and we were right in the same room with them.  My ears were ringing by the time we left.  We also had the treat of having the son of our host, who is himself a trained Qur'anic reciter do a recitation from the Qur'an for us.  We finally left there to return to the hotel at 11:00.  As we were driving back, the nightly festivities were in full swing, with people out on the streets dancing, singing, enjoying food in the cafes, children playing in the fountains. I remarked that this experience of Ramadan in Morocco is like Lent during the day and Mardi Gras after sundown!  So it is now almost 12:30 and I must turn in.  Another early morning tomorrow as we leave Fez and return to Rabat for the second day of our academic symposium.

Pics today are the room where we met, the mosque, the 9th century Qur'an, and scenes from our evening at the Imam's home for Iftar and chanting.

Rabat - Kasbah Des Oudaias and Tomb of Mohammad V

Today we started out touring around Rabat, which is the capital of Morocco.   We drove through the grounds of the royal palace, which were lovely, to say the least!  Then we drove over to the sea coast where we walked through the Kasbah des Oudaias, the original 12th century site of the city, known then as ribat.  It is a beautiful walk there, through tiny, winding narrow, cobblestoned streets.  There are gardens, courtyards, a lovely little cafe overlooking the sea, small little streets with shops.  It was, in the 12th century, the area where the rulers of the Almohad, Merenid and Andalusian dynasties lived, within the large stone walls.  Now it is a very picturesque village atmosphere and particularly pretty with the sea right there. 

After we left the Kasbah we drove to the site of the tomb of Muhammad V, the previous king of Morocco (the father of the current king) which is right near a large mosque and a medieval minaret that is classical Moroccan style.  The tomb is a major site of pilgrimage for Moroccan muslims and it is quite a stunning building where it is housed.   There are several guards on horseback and others stationed around the building and they were remarkably genial, allowing tourists to take pictures with them.  

After the tomb and mosque, we went to the old city and walked through the souk.  This souk, unlike the one we visited in Marrakech, was full of locals, not tourists.  My prize purchase of the day was a traditional, Moroccan abayah (long dress that the Muslim women wear), pure white with a lovely pattern which I intend to use as an alb for church!  One of the other priests on the trip is now planning to look for one for himself at the souk in Fez tomorrow!  We have all been admiring the Moroccan traditional dress and realized that the long white dresses that both men women wear would work just fine as ecclesiastical albs for us.  They are a very light and breathable fabric, so perfect for summer and at $37.50 a real bargain, considering you can't buy an alb for much less than $200 at clerical supply stores!

After our morning sightseeing we returned to our hotel, had lunch, checked out and embarked on the road to Fez.  We arrived in Fez around 5:00 and were all very heartened to be in a very upscale hotel, with good wifi, a bar and a location near shops and civilization!  We settled into our rooms and then gathered with our Muslim leader for a discussion and then an introduction to Sufi spirituality.  Imam Bashar, who is Syrian, is a Sufi Sunni Muslim, steeped in that mystical tradition.  We did sufi meditation and chant for about a half hour before the breaking of the fast.  When it was time for the Iftar, Imam Bashar and his wife went off for the break-fast and we had a free hour. A bunch of us hit the bar to break our fast from alcohol!!  First G&T I've had in days and boy did it taste good!  Then we walked across the street to a restaurant where we sat outside for our dinner.   When we arrived at 9:00 things were fairly quiet, but when we left to return to our hotel at 11:00 the streets were packed with people walking, partying, playing music, sitting at cafes having food and coffee and mint tea.  Its amazing how lively it is outside late at night, after the break-fast and evening prayers.  Everyone pours out onto the streets and it is a real party atmosphere.   

Pics today are from the Kasbah and the tomb of Mohammad V, with me next to the guard!

Embassy Iftar - Rabat

Today we started off early to attend church in Marrakesh at L'Eglise des Saints Martyrs, a Roman Catholic Franciscan parish.  The service was entirely in French, but the music, performed by an entirely African choir, included music sung in French, Latin and Congolese!  I discovered I can sing in French better than I can speak!  I understand it when I read it but not when someone is speaking (as in I got about 1 sentence in the sermon!!).  There was a group of young Charismatic Roman Catholic kids from Belgium who were visiting the parish for a week and as soon as the service was over they and the choir of the host church all started singing and clapping, with drums and synthesizer going - it was very lively!  The priest at the parish told one of our leaders that we were all welcome to receive Communion, which surprised us, but certainly made it more enjoyable to be at the service.  Although I couldn't follow the French very well, except when we were singing, it was pretty easy to follow the liturgy and interesting to see a  Christian community in a country where Christianity is a distinct minority.  In Morocco the Christians are almost exclusively ex-pats, not Moroccans.  Non-Moroccan Africans and Europeans mostly.

After the church service was over we hit the road for Rabat which was another long ride.  About 2 hours along we stopped for lunch and then resumed.  During the ride, for the first couple of hours, we enjoyed a very lively conversation with our Muslim leader and his wife about Islam and issues around the interpretation of the Qur'an in the modern context.  It certainly helped make the ride pass quickly, as we enjoyed robust conversation and reflection.  As we got off the highway about 20 minutes outside the city, we were driving along the Atlantic coast.  We stopped to get out and look at the coastline which was pretty and rocky and rugged.  As we drove into Rabat, we passed through the poorest section of the city, which has shanty towns with tin huts, not far from palatial villas facing the ocean.  As we drove further into the city, we came to our hotel which is very near the royal palace and the diplomatic residences.  We got to Rabat at about 5:30 and had only a short time to get showered and dressed in our clerical attire to attend an Iftar reception at the residence of the US Ambassador to Morocco, Dwight L. Bush, Sr.   He hosted us and invited a cadre of Moroccan academics and public servants as well as various staff from the US Embassy and USAID to join us for Iftar.  The ambassador's residence is, to say the least, palatial and elegant.  I was seated with Imam Bashar, one of our trip leaders and the ambassador and two prominent women in Morocco whom the King has designated as women who are qualified to be intellectual and religious leaders, even over men (quite an accomplishment in Muslim culture!)  Our dinner conversations were all about the importance of interfaith work in the context of various global crises, particularly those in the Arab world, and particularly why interfaith engagement is important for Muslim clerics outside the US and for politicians and diplomats to learn as they navigate the conflicts and trouble spots.  Morocco is a bright spot in this region as it is progressive (at least compared to other Muslim majority countries) and Muslims here are more open to interfaith engagement than is the case in other middle eastern countries.  

Pics include the church, the coast near Rabat, and shots from the embassy reception.

Marrakesh - Souks and Mosque and Night Prayer

Today we spent time sightseeing in Marrakesh which is a city dating from the 12th century.  It is everything you think of when you hear "Morocco."  It is known as the Red City, as all the buildings are made from red sandstone, the red sand from the Sahara Desert.  It is easily 20 degrees hotter here than in Casablanca.  Temps are in the mid-high 90s during the day, although when the sun goes down it becomes noticeably cooler and very pleasant.  We started out the day driving through the part of the old city where the old fancy hotels are located.  Our guide pointed out the one that was favored by Winston Churchill!  We then stopped at an old garden outside the old city walls that is huge, with acres of olive trees that are over 300 years old.  There is a large reservoir with a pyramid type building at one end of the garden.  Then as you exit you see the main thoroughfare, Rue Mohammad V and in the distance the minaret of the great Koutoubia Mosque, which holds over 25,000 people.  Since it is Ramadan and there are more people attending prayers than the mosque can accommodate, outside, where there are ruins of the old part of the mosque from centuries ago, we could see the straw mats that have been placed down in the ruins for people to pray outside during the Ramadan prayers.  After visiting the mosque area we went over to the area where the King has a residence when in Marrakesh and then visited the graveyard of the Kasbah Mosque, right next to the palace.  The graveyard area is a beautiful garden, with many rooms in which are entombed members of the royal families through the centuries, including a room for children, for wives, for palace staff and families.  Its a beautiful space and the tombstones and rooms are all beautiful tile and woodwork carved walls and ceilings.

After that we visited a herbaria, where we learned about traditional Moroccan herbs, some used for cooking, some for various medical purposes, others for cosmetics and creams.  We had demonstrations of the various products and bought our supplies of Moroccan tea and other goodies.  Then we went to lunch in the center of the souk.  It was lovely in there.  The restaurant - Cafe Arabe -was excellent.  The food was delicious and very filling and they had a bar so a few of us indulged our longing for alcoholic refreshment!  After lunch some folks returned to the hotel and 5 of us continued on through the souk, which has many winding little passageways lined with stalls full of Moroccan crafts - leather, woodworking, textiles, clothing, silver...and on and on.  The guide stayed with us, which is a good thing or we may never have found our way out of there.  It was crowded, but not as much as it would have been had it not been Ramadan.  By the time we left at nearly 5:00, the main square, the Jemaa el Fna, where we had been last night, was gearing up for the breaking of the fast and the hordes of people that would show up at sundown.  

We returned to the Koutoubia Mosque area and the Jemaa el Fna just before the breaking of the fast.  What is remarkable at that time is how deserted the streets are, as the Muslims are all gathering in restaurants or homes or small picnic groups to break the fast at the appointed hour.  They do so by eating 3 dates, drinking water and milk and then, in Morocco, having a bowl of harira soup, a soup made from vegetables and lentils, with Moroccan spices.  Our leader found us a restaurant with a top floor, outside, overlooking the Koutoubia mosque so we went up there, and he and his wife broke the fast (and we joined them eating the dates and soup!) and then we spent the evening having our dinner there where we could overlook the mosque.  It was quiet for about half an hour after the break-fast, and then people started arriving at the mosque for the night prayers.  By the time they started, shortly after nine, there were thousands of people in the outside prayer area, and even more inside.  The entire evening worship is broadcast over the loudspeakers, so we heard the Ramadan night prayer sermon first, interrupted by the call to prayer, and then the sermon concludes.  Then they did the regular night prayer service, followed by the additional 20 verses of the Qur'an that have to be recited each night of Ramadan.  During the month of Ramadan, they read through the entire Qur'an.  We watched and listened for nearly two hours.  It was fascinating to see the waves of people praying.  The women's section, which is much smaller than the section for the men, was absolutely packed, so much so that lots of women who couldn't fit in to join the prayer line, simply sat across the street on the curb and listened from there.  It was really beautiful - the mosque and square all lit up, the air pleasant and cool, and the sound of the chanting of the Qur'an acompanying our dinner and dessert.  We enjoyed traditional Moroccan mint tea when our meal was over as we continued to listen to the service.  Our Imam translated some of the verses as they were being recited, which was most helpful, and he also translated bits of the sermon so we had a little idea of what the crowds were hearing.  It was truly a spiritual experience to observe this Ramadan ritual and most impressive to see the devotion of all these folks to their religious observance.  We Christian clergy rued the fact that we have no time in our liturgical year that draws crowds like that, not even Christmas Eve or Easter Sunday!  When that service concluded it was not unlike Times Square on New Year's Eve as everyone streamed away from the mosque area back to the square or off to home.  We came back to the hotel at that point, as it was nearly 11 and we have a very early morning tomorrow.  

The pics are me by the reservoir, the camels that were resting and eating as we entered that garden area, a couple of shots of the souk, some of the tilework in the Kasbah Cemetary and the Koutoubia Mosque at sunset.  The area that is empty in this picture was packed with thousands of worshippers 90 minutes later!!

Marrakesh

Morocco Day 2

Today was not very full of activity but it was long and hot!  We spent the morning walking around the Old City of Casablanca, where the souk is.  Little tiny winding streets, lots of market stalls.  I found a little tiny door with the name of a Rabbi on it and Hebrew lettering, suggesting that there are some Jews in the Old City, although I'm betting they are a distinct minority!  And, like in Turkey, there were plenty of cats wandering around the souk!  Because it is Ramadan all the cafes/restaurants were closed and the streets were pretty empty.  Everything comes alive here after sundown, particularly in Ramadan.  We took a drive through the ritzy area of Casablanca out by the beach and stopped to look at the beach.  There was almost no one out there as the Muslims are all sleeping during the day and none of the cafes or restaurants by the water are open during the day.  The views out over the water were lovely. We then had lunch at the hotel, checked out and started our LONG drive to Marrakesh, via the Casablanca airport to retrieve my bag and then the Marrakesh airport to retrieve another person's bag.  The air conditioning in our van was not working, so it was extremely hot.  We finally gave up on the AC and opened the windows (only the ones by the driver and front passenger open!) but at least that gave us a breeze, hot though it was. Then at one point the van overheated and our driver had to pull over to the side of the road, open the hood and fiddle around!  We sat in the heat watching a flock of sheep grazing right beside the road!  The driver got the car going and we proceeded on.  It was a 5+ hour drive, so we napped, talked, and tried to stay as cool as possible!  We finally arrived at our Marrakesh hotel at 8PM, tired and sweaty!  We had a brief break to shower and clean up and then gathered for a LATE dinner.  This hotel is very spacious and luxurious, and to my relief the AC seems to be working (not the case in my room last night!)  As we waited in the lobby to depart for dinner there was a man playing a lute-like instrument, keeping us entertained while we waited for the bus driver to return.  

We arrived at the souk area of Marrakesh just as the last call to prayer was sounding with literally thousands of Muslims streaming to the main mosque near the square.  They do the last prayers and then Qur'anic reciting for quite awhile afterwards.  The souk area was absolutely teeming with people all out for the evening.  Some were there for the prayers and then eating, singing and socializing, some were just walking around the market area, enjoying food, music, all the various market stalls.  There were snake handlers, and guys with monkeys, and food and drink vendors and musicians galore with stringed instruments and drums playing for hours.  We walked through the market which was very festive and exceedingly crowded, mostly with Moroccans, not tourists, and made our way to a restaurant where we had our dinner on a second floor balcony overlooking the souk.  It was lovely and cool in the dark and very comfortable, compared to the heat of the day.  And it was hopping!  We left at midnight and the place was still going strong, with folks, old and young, still singing, chanting, eating, talking, socializing.  You'd never know it was past midnight.  There are lots of horse drawn carriages down in that area and they give people rides all over the center city.  We had to jump out of the way numerous times to avoid being run over by horses!  We had a very leisurely meal up on the balcony, enjoying the view, to the beat of the drums and chanting that were going on below us and people watching from our perch up high.  I had a delicious Moroccan lamb kofte with egg, Moroccan salad (tomatoes, cucumber, onions, spices) fresh bread and fruit.  The only thing missing was my G&T but I'm guessing I won't see one of them until I hit Amsterdam!  Morocco in Ramadan is no place to find any alcoholic beverages!  It is now 1:15 AM and I am off to sleep!

The pics today are me and the group out at the beach at Casablanca and then the mosque minaret in the Marrakesh Old City and one of the many vendors selling candles that were all over the souk.

Arrived and First Iftar!

Things did not start well on this trip!  I arrived at the airport in Rochester to discover that my flight to JFK was cancelled. Actually all flights to the New York Metropolitan area were cancelled due to thunderstorms there.  After a half hour at the ticketing counter I got rebooked to Detroit and from there to Paris and then to Casablanca.  I arrived in Casablanca at 2:00 this afternoon, but my luggage did not arrive.  No suprise.  I then found my driver (that took some doing too, as my lateness and the delay while filing the lost luggage claim took a lot of time) and arrived at the the hotel but my group had already left for the tour of the mosque that I had hoped to be here for.  When they got back, shortly after I finally got into my room, we set off for an evening in one of the worst slums of Casablanca, where we were hosted by a community group that is doing amazing work in that impoverished community with young people.  Mr. Mazoz Boubker was our host.  He is an amazing man, who has worked for many years in this community building the Sidi Moumen Cultural Center which provides tutoring, sports, music, religious instruction to hundreds of kids in this particular ghetto.  The work they do is amazing and he has hosted many international guests and visitors, even taking groups of the kids from his neighborhood overseas on cultural exchange programs.  During Ramadan they do a football (soccer) tournament every day during the holy month, so we arrived as a few of the teams were hard at it.  Hundreds of folks come out to watch the kids play.  We then got a tour of the community center, which has up to date classrooms with computers and wifi and musical instruments and textbooks for tutoring.  They teach the kids English as well as the basic reading, writing, math and they also do a lot of work to help the kids overcome or avoid gangs and drugs which are the easiest temptations in that impoverished neighborhood. As we drove there, we passed a number of shanty towns - real poverty, with little tin huts as family homes.  After touring the facility we saw a video about their work and then we were honored guests at the Iftar (breaking of the Ramadan fast) and dinner that follows.  They insisted that we get our food first, even though they had been fasting all day!  They had prepared quite a feast of all kinds of foods, many of which we had not idea what it was we were eating, but it was good!  Lots of pastries and cakes, I noticed.  You break the fast with a date and a cup of water, but then you dive in and feast away!  The members of the community prepared all the food so we got real home cooked Moroccan fare.  I've included some pics of the food, the community center and a big group picture at the end.  Also, a shot of the young boys who did some Qur'anic chanting for us.  As we left the kids were starting to sing and dance and I suspect they are still partying!  We were exhausted so had to depart by 9:00-ish!  When I got back to the hotel we tried to track my luggage which I had been told would have arrived by 8 PM but there was not sign of it.  I spent a good deal of time on the phone with Air France in Georgia trying to locate it.  Pray it shows up tomorrow morning, as we are leaving Casablanca for Marrakesh tomorrow and, in Morocco, they don't deliver bags to the hotel, you have to go to the airport to pick them up!!  At this point I'm beyond exhaustion and am going to bed hoping that, by some miracle, I will learn tomorrow morning that my luggage is in the Casablanca airport!